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Sunday, April 22, 2007

TRAVELER'S TALE
Let the River Flow
Text & Photos by C. Pascual

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Mandaluyong Hulo station

I pass by the Mandaluyong portion of the Pasig River everyday when going to work and I would sleepily notice scores of people lined up to ride a ferry that would cross the river to Makati. Late last year, there has been some construction on my daily-commute-side of the river, slightly disrupting the easy-peasy flow of traffic on Mandaluyong's Hulo street. Some months after, they took down the corrugated steel around the perimeter of the construction area, and lo and behold, I saw that it was a really nice station of some sort. After asking around, I found out that it's the Hulo station of a Pasig River ferry line. The ferry line, called Pasig River Ferry Project, officially went into business on March 20, but it wasn't until about a month later that I got to go on,what I fondly call, my Pasig River cruise.

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A happy passenger entering the waiting area
photo has been modified to protect the identity of some people

A request from a colleague visiting from Cebu to take her around the city prompted me and a friend to plan an impromptu itinerary that would take our Cebuano counterparts around the old Manila area. That earnest request couldn't have come at a better time, and it seemed as if the opportunity to cruise the historic river was just waiting to jump on us. It naturally occurred to me and my co-itinerary maker that a ride on the Pasig River ferry was in order. We trooped on over to Hulo, and were immediately comforted from the sweltering summer heat by the airconditioned ferry station. We were warmly and cheerfully greeted by the station guards, as well as the operations personnel who seemed genuinely amused by the four giggly, chattery and excited girls (erm, us) buying tickets for Escolta. Presently, tickets cost Php 25.00 (about 50 cents) each, whether you're hopping off the next station or the last. You can ride the ferry via Guadalupe, Hulo or Escolta, however, more stations are being constructed and some are almost complete (PUP, Lambingan stations). Tickets aren't actual tickets, but more like receipts printed with the amount you paid and a barcode that you need to scan on the turnstile. The station itself is modern, with wheelchair-access elevator, walk-through metal detector and air conditioning (yes, a/c=modern. Ha.) The station is a bit small, able to seat about 10 passengers-awaiting. It actually reminds me of the airport in Aklan, with bay windows looking out on the murky river-water instead of the concrete runway.


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A neat and comfortable ferry station

We just missed the ferry leaving for Escolta, so we had to wait about 30 minutes to hop on the next one (oh yes, a trip schedule!). Boarding the ferry was a breeze, and once inside the massive white catamaran, we were greeted by the welcome blast of cold air from the a/c. I was like, whoa, this boat is fully airconditioned and fully enclosed. We took our places by the glass windows, comfortable on the individual blue fixed plastic chairs and instantly riveted to the scenery outside. I don't know why, but it seemed as if the everyday goings-on outside suddenly had this post-card feel to it. From where I sat, colors of the dusty street looked more alive, and the indifferent people whom we encountered on the way to the station waved happily to us, as the boat gently pulled away from the pier.

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Lambingan station opening soon

Inside the boat, there was an excited chitter as dads would point out to their kids certain places that they recognize; as pseudo tour guides (ahem) droned on about the history of places that we were seeing. As expected from a river that was once declared as dead, there was a lot of trash floating around and stashed against the river-banks. People, who live by the river in stilted shanties, observed us pass and children who were swimming in the dirty waters happily showed off their diving expertise while waving to us. Steel cylindrical buildings containing various oils (or so the signs say) line both sides of the banks in most parts, looking like gigantic river sentinels silently watching us make our way to Escolta. Ugly-beautiful boat wrecks are also parked in some areas, giving the river a melancholy feel. I was pondering on these sights and getting ready to get all sentimental when loud laughter took me out of my reverie. I looked around and saw that the boat operators changed the DVD from MI:2 to Porky and Choppy dishing out their signature jokes. Yes, the ferry has a wide, flat-screen tv that can get a tad too loud sometimes.

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View of the oil tanks from the ferry

The boat has a uniformed, armed guard inside, to observe and secure passengers /as the boat passes by Malacanang Palace. Part of his duty is to warn people not to take pictures of the country's seat of power, presumably as an anti-terrorist precaution. We saw the place where Erap was taken away after EDSA Dos, the lush gardens of the palace and more trash by the Malacanang pier. I was especially enamored by the teeny island after Malacanang, called Hospicio de San Jose or Isla de Convalencia, an orphanage on a spit of quiet land surrounded by the waters of the river, standing bravely amidst the hustle and bustle of downtown Manila.


The Escolta station, where we disembarked, is right behind Binondo (Manila's Chinatown) although in a quieter part of the busy area. As we bought refreshments from the nearby Polland Hopia cafe, I quietly thought to myself that inspite of the poverty and negligence that we saw, it was still a lovely ride. I'm hopeful that one day, I'll see the river that nourished Manila flowing freely, vibrantly alive.

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Thursday, April 19, 2007

ANNOUNCEMENT
The Pasig River Ferry Service Project
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photo from www.adb.org

Quarter one of 2007 heralded the commencement of Pasig River Ferry service, boasting of a leisurely and hassle-free means of transport via airconditioned catamaran units that ply the length of Pasig River.

A joint project of the Department of Transportation and Communications (DOTC), Metro Manila Development Authority (MMDA)and Pasig River Rehabilitation Commission (PRRC), with funding from the Asian Development Bank (ADB), the Pasig River Ferry Service project aims to provide alternative means of transportation, and at the same time, "enhance the image and status of the Pasig River as an important artery in Metro Manila's growing inter-modal transport system," as stated in the project's terms of reference.

To date, there are only 3 operational stations located in Guadalupe, Hulo (Mandaluyong) and Escolta. More stations are currently being constructed for better accessibility. All in all, there will be 17 stations, stretching to Marikina, Laguna de Bay and Manila Bay.

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